If Perth is the polished face of Western Australia, Fremantle is its colourful, slightly rebellious coastal cousin.

Known locally as Freo, the historic port city is an easy escape from central Perth, but it does not feel like an extension of the city. Fremantle has built a character entirely of its own.

Its maritime past is everywhere. Grand heritage buildings sit alongside old warehouses and working port infrastructure, while sails and rigging provide a constant reminder that the Indian Ocean is right on the doorstep. But Fremantle is far from being frozen in its past.

Its historic streets and hidden laneways have become home to cafés, small bars, boutique stores and an energetic creative scene. Street art appears unexpectedly around corners, while musicians and local characters add to a city that feels considerably less formal than central Perth.

Just 19 kilometres off the coast sits Rottnest Island, where turquoise water, white sand and the island’s famously photogenic quokkas make the journey across the water well worth it. The ferry trip from Fremantle is straightforward, with multiple services operating to the island. Once you arrive, the pace changes almost instantly.

 

Cars are largely absent from the visitor experience and cycling is one of the most popular ways to explore. There are 63 bays and 20 beaches scattered around Rottnest, with coral reefs and marine life making many of them ideal for snorkelling. And then there are the quokkas.

 

The small marsupials have become international celebrities, thanks largely to the seemingly permanent smile that has launched countless holiday selfies. They are still wild animals, though. Visitors are asked to enjoy them from a respectful distance and not touch or feed them.

For those wanting to see more than the main settlement, an island tour opens up a surprisingly varied landscape. Wadjemup Lighthouse, Henrietta Rocks, secluded coves, salt lakes and stretches of coastline reveal that Rottnest is much more than a collection of beautiful swimming spots. The island also carries significant maritime, colonial and military history.

But this is Western Australia, and eventually the water becomes impossible to resist. There is something particularly appealing about finding a quiet bay, looking out across ridiculously clear blue water and realising the biggest decision ahead is whether to swim or simply sit there and take it all in.

Staying overnight gives Rottnest another dimension. Discovery Resorts sits behind the dunes at Pinky Beach and offers 83 eco tents, combining the outdoor feel of camping with considerably more comfort. Premium tents include ensuites, proper beds and outdoor areas, meaning there is no requirement to sacrifice a decent night’s sleep in the name of getting close to nature.

As evening arrives, Pinky Beach becomes one of those places that makes you understand why Western Australians are so enthusiastic about their coastline.

Pinky’s restaurant looks across the beach towards Bathurst Lighthouse, with locally inspired food and cocktails served as the sun disappears over the Indian Ocean.

 

The real appeal of combining Fremantle and Rottnest is the contrast. One gives you heritage streets, food, art, bars and the energy of a historic port city. The other invites you to slow down, find a beach, meet a quokka and forget about the mainland for a while.

And the best part for New Zealand travellers considering Western Australia is that you do not need to choose between them.

Fremantle and Rottnest can easily become part of the same coastal adventure, adding a completely different experience to a Perth holiday.

Sometimes the best part of visiting a city is discovering just how much is waiting beyond it.